Kochi Fishermen Face Plummeting Kibinago Catch, a Traditional Mother's Delicacy
Asahi Shimbun
Sukumo Bay in Kochi Prefecture is famed for Kibinago, a small fish used in the traditional dish 'Kibinago no hōkaburi', passed down from mother to child. Declining catches due to climate change, warmer waters, and overfishing have alarmed local fishermen, who are striving to sustain both their livelihood and the region's culinary heritage.
In Sukumo Bay, at the southwestern tip of Kochi Prefecture (Japan), a small fish from the herring family known as Kibinago is a celebrated local specialty. Residents often prepare Kibinago as sashimi or tempura, but the most distinctive dish is Kibinago no hōkaburi—a meal deeply tied to family memories passed down through generations.
According to the Asahi Shimbun, the tradition of making this dish is handed from mother to child. It combines vinegared rice, salted Kibinago, and other local ingredients, wrapped in leaves and lightly fermented. However, in recent years, Kibinago catches have declined sharply, leaving local fishermen deeply concerned.
The causes are believed to include climate change, rising sea temperatures, and overfishing. Fishermen are now seeking ways to adapt and sustain this marine resource, not only to preserve their livelihoods but also to safeguard a traditional flavor that is woven into the region's culinary cultural fabric.
