Khartoum’s recovery slow as residents cautiously return

Khartoum, Sudan – Night may hide flaws, but under daylight the war wounds of Sudan’s capital are plain to see. Neighborhoods and homes lie in ruins, yet along the roads rubble has been cleared and traffic is slowly returning. However, refugees and the displaced — many of whom left more than three years ago — are cautiously coming back, as official statements about normal life often contradict the ground reality.

An Al Jazeera tour of Khartoum revealed stark differences between areas. Affluent districts, especially in the east, remain largely deserted — from Garden City in the north, through Manshiya, Riyadh, Taif, Maamoura, Arkawit, Mujahideen and other upscale neighborhoods in the south.

Downtown in ruins

In central Khartoum, silence hangs over the ruined Arab market and the city center. The area once housed most ministries, institutions, banks and the central gold market. Signs of life are rare except along Freedom Street, where electrical-appliance shops have reopened and buyers are starting to return. Neighborhoods such as Khartoum 1, 2, 3, al-Amarat, al-Sahafa and Yathrib remain nearly empty, with only a handful of residents back.

At night these districts are plunged into darkness due to power cuts, while by day heavy traffic along Sixty Street stands out. One of the largest roads in eastern Khartoum, it connects the north and south of the city. Along it, banks, pharmacies, shops, restaurants (including Syrian ones) and petrol stations have reopened, but the residential blocks behind remain quiet by day and dark by night.

Cautious return

Families in these neighborhoods are weighing their return decisions carefully, while others are postponing until services improve and life edges closer to normal. Many homeowners are not under severe economic pressure, and some have settled abroad. Those who have returned say some neighbors living overseas have found jobs or businesses that provide income and relative stability. After more than two years away, many fear they will not find similar conditions if they come back, especially given the fragile economy and difficult living circumstances.

The return decision is influenced by multiple factors, including income, children’s education, healthcare services, and confidence in long-term security and stability. In north Omdurman, the locality of Karari has seen both economic and population growth. The Rapid Support Forces (RSF), a Sudanese paramilitary force now fighting the army, did not appear there during the war. Karari has benefited from inheriting Khartoum’s role, as trade, real-estate activity and government offices moved there, leaving it better off than before the conflict.

Life is also returning to parts of Omdurman and Umm Badda. East Nile is seeing a growing number of returning residents, as are neighborhoods in Khartoum North, though the central area remains hobbled by postwar rubble. Social experts note that the hesitation to return stems not only from economic conditions and services, but also from the psychological impact of war. Some families have suffered trauma from losing loved ones, having homes destroyed or looted, or spending long periods in conflict zones, creating lasting fear tied to the area.

The instability in the capital during the war has also prompted some residents to sell their homes. A real-estate agent in Khartoum told Al Jazeera that the supply of houses for sale is rising, with eastern districts attracting the highest demand from buyers.

Most buyers are merchants and businesspeople looking to take advantage of property prices that have fallen 30–40 percent, depending on location and building condition, hoping values will return to pre-war levels within a year or less. The agent added that buyers prefer ready-built properties because of high construction costs, and noted that rents for apartments and houses vary depending on whether the building has its own generator, given the erratic power supply.

Daily struggle

The daily shopping routine for Sudanese families is no longer simple. In recent weeks it has become a struggle, as prices shift rapidly amid a severe economic crisis and the ongoing war. At markets across Khartoum state, it is now routine to see people moving between stores hunting for small price differences; many buy only part of their needs or skip basic items once taken for granted. Even bread has become a burden for low-income families and those who have lost their income, after the price rose fivefold compared with before the war.

The phrase “every day a new price hike” has become common among shoppers, as soaring prices force thousands of families to change their lifestyles, reduce food consumption, and rely on debt or remittances from relatives abroad to meet basic needs.

A tour of shops and groceries showed that most goods are imported from Egypt by road and from Saudi Arabia by sea, while some Sudanese industries — particularly dairy, mineral water and processed meat — have restarted production. The same goes for medicines. When Al Jazeera asked for aspirin at a pharmacy on Sixty Street, the pharmacist replied: “We have Korean, Cypriot, Pakistani and Bangladeshi supplies.” A Sudanese pharmaceutical factory, well-known for product quality, has also resumed supplying the market.

Transport costs between the main urban centers of Greater Khartoum have risen, adding to people’s burden. Most buses look old and weary, displaying clear signs of war damage. On most trips, two to four passengers cannot afford the full fare or can only pay part. Most payments are now made via banking apps, which have become popular even among roadside car washers and tea sellers.

Despite the hardships, harsh living conditions and poor services, the determination to carry on and overcome challenges remains a defining feature of residents striving to restore their former lives, resume old activities or start new projects.